Twila Earle, Austin, Texas "phantasmagorical multidimensional"
From left to right: Twila and Jan at off the beaten track Mylopotamos Beach.
I’m still reflecting upon and absorbing our exceptional, extraordinary, wonderful journey.
This was such an important experience for me. At this point in my life, it was the medicine I needed.
I
think about how you did it. About how you do this phantasmagorical
multidimensional production of a Tangents Greece Music Tour - this year
and all of the years you’ve been doing these music tours. You are the
symphony conductor getting it ready and bringing it all together,
weaving each day into a beautiful oneness and fullness of sound and
life experience for us all.
And
yes, being part of the circle slowly drawing together, feelings of love
and family growing, fed by your generous nourishments of fresh food,
fine music and fine strong spirit. A labor of love for sure. Couldn’t
be anything else.
Wow, Maestro. Thank you.
It
was awesome. Deep. As I remember and reflect, it continues to be an
altogether satisfying, surprising and strengthening experience. I
imagine I’m not alone. I’m grateful to you, all my fellow group members
and this amazing world. Taking this magical musical journey with me as
we joyfully journey on.
Maureen Parton, Mill Valley
Maureen with Kristi Stassinopouplou Post Concert
Music as a Healing Tonic and a Call to Join A One-of-a- Kind Adventure
I
came on the Tangents Greek Music tour because my heart needed healing.
I was first in Greece in 2021 with my husband Jim. He had just finished
a year-long experimental drug study and we were finally free to travel.
I knew that this was going to be the last big trip we'd take together
and it was.
I joined the tour because I wanted to be in Greece
again, the place Jim most loved on our nine week trip to Europe. You
see, over the years of our marriage, music had become one of the
organizing principles of our shared cultural lives. From jazz to folk
to alternative and world music, we adored live music and savored it
like fine wine.
This trip was exactly what I needed. It immersed
me in the healing that only music provides. Each one of the 11 concerts
was a soundscape bringing an intoxicating mixture of pathos, drama and
sheer, unadulterated joy. This was a tonic to the great sadness and
sense of loss deep in my soul. I can only call this feeling a surrender
to what I most needed and yet fought valiantly to quell.
All
of the concerts were remarkable. But, one, in particular, stood out.
Dore had arranged a concert in a warehouse in the far reaches of
Athens. We were there to hear Kristi Stassinopoulu and Stahis
Kalyviotis, a married couple, in concert and their musical performance
danced energetically and with spellbinding drama from indigenous Greek
folk to rock to electronica. I was filled with a knowing sense that Jim
was present, there with me, enjoying what might best be described as a
Greek "Patti Smith" and "Lou Reed." But, they were more than that. They
were the sound that I had been longing to hear. It was as if I had a
divine download from the great beyond. It was the essence of Jim's
presence and spirit right there rocking along with me.
After the
show, I walked up to Kristi and introduced myself. I tried to describe
what her performance meant to me, that I felt healed in some wordless
way. At a loss for words, I asked if I could hug her. She smiled and
opened her arms and we embraced for a long time. Somehow, someway,
sisters in grief and sisters in healing.
Dore is a Master
Alchemist conjuring up, with great expertise, precision and dedication,
an entire trip of musical and cultural experiences that are peerless -
simply unmatched by any other trip I've taken. I mean it when I say
that there's nothing like it. It has all the components of a full
immersion experience without your having to hassle with the day to day
details. Dore has already worked it out and you can simply focus on
getting to know Greece, its people and places and Greek music in a
deeply experiential and meaningful way. My companions on the journey
are people I enjoyed meeting, spending time with and getting to know.
We had time for each other and time for ourselves, a great balance on
an ambitious trip like this.
I can honestly say that you would
never - on your own - find these musicians with their finely curated
performances, intriguing concert locations and charming small hotels
and family-owned and operated restaurants with quality cuisine. It
comes to you because Dore Stein, talented, renowned SF Bay Area KALW
DJ, has honed this experience over the years with care, creativity, and
attention to every detail so that you don't have to. You get to enjoy
and do something we often don't get a chance to do - to be "in the
moment."
Be good to yourself and enjoy Greece and Greek music on
this unique, finely crafted excursion with fascinating, intellectually
stimulating and fun participants. You will be glad you did.
Tom Tollefsen, Glen Ellen "In the wake of the Greek
financial debt Crisis, within a barely functioning musical industry,
Tangential Magus Dore Stein has produced 11 concerts featuring
top-talent musicians playing traditional++ instruments."
In the spirit of Tangents, I will open with a Mystery Quiz:
____________________________________________________________________
#1.
Three score years ago appeared a novel about a young man’s
coming-of-age encounter in Greece with a very peculiar antagonist. Name
the novel and the author.
#2. Coincidently a young man in real life made his first solo international journey, also to Greece. Can you name him?
_____________________________________________________________________
The
answer to #1 is The Magus, by John Fowles. Maybe you guessed that the
answer to #2 is yours truly --- I know, not really a fair question. But
when I read the revised novel a decade later I was captivated by the
story and immediately struck by the parallel timing. The Magus became
my personal talisman (< Gr. telesma, ‘religious rite’) for the
magic of initiation by foreign travel. A few years ago I took my old
tattered copy along and reread much of it on the island of Lesbos.
The antagonist in The Magus is a conjurer, an artificer, a theatrical stager of encounters. Notwithstanding
his suspect motives and histrionic behavior in the story, I would like
to use his skills and creativity as a template for an appreciation of
Dore Stein’s talents as producer of theTangents Greece Music Tour.
First
of all, the accommodations. For many years I have traveled solo and duo
on a budget. Welook for family-run hotels, inns, and restaurants.
Greeks are famously hospitable. Dore’s picksare right on.
Next,
the music. I have since revisited Greece a number of times, and very
occasionally enjoyed live laïkó music in a tavern, but the Tangents
Tour is a unique experience. Both the quality and quantity are
exceptional.
I have taken only a handful of tours, all
musical, for access to something special. Dore the Magus delivers it.
In the wake of the Greek financial debt Crisis, within a barely
functioning musical industry, Tangential Magus Dore Stein has produced
11 concerts featuring top-talent musicians playing traditional++
instruments. In addition he has arranged 7 docent-led walking/museum
tours in Athens, Thessaloniki, and Meteora in fascinating venues.
A
couple of situational features amplified my appreciation. We always had
our pick of seats, andso often I was able to watch the musicians
closely. Like many people, I often enjoy listening to music with eyes
closed, but here I was fascinated by the players’ dexterity and their
ensemble interaction. Afterwards I snooped at their instruments, poked
my nose into their craft, talked about the music, and we parted with
hugs all around. Then a tsipouro or Metaxa with mydrinking buddy Jim.
All good.
And we all learned soon that several of our group had
recently lost spouses or parents. While noone wore their grief on their
sleeve, it was obvious to me that this music was a balm. The earth of
ancient Hellas has been ploughed over with blood and ash; the aquifers
charged with tears. But Greek music and voice will always drill down
through the loss and sorrow to release a wellspring of consolation and
compassion. Many drank deeply.
And,
yes, the music. Greek physical beauty is hard, sharp, acute, bright,
keen, stony, thorny, spiny, pungent. Hellenic life embraces
uncertainty, success, loss, conquest, defeat. The music voices all of
these:
__________________________________________________________________
The Livas Trio featured a masterful qanun (plucked zither) performance of both touch and power.
The Lyra Quartet (lyra, bowed upright viol) emoted longing and nostalgia.
The Daulute Trio morphed into a tectonic power-driver with percussion, laouto (necked bowl lute), and askomandoura (bagpipe).
The Stelios Petrakis Trio generated another rousing evening of laouto from Dimitris
Sideris, and a very moving spontaneous dance by the audience.
Elsa Mourtidou’s plangent, lovely voice backed by her ensemble was a wellhead of
consolation.
Koumartzis & Stavridis gently and sweetly demonstrated the ancient kithara (lyre) accompanied by accordion.
Iliodromio played in a beautiful amphitheater in the foothills of Mt.
Olympus. They are inventive and progressive, jazzy and propulsive.
Their musical academy band and chorus opened with very professional
voices and polished arrangements.
Ala Rum treated us to a distinct
vanishing music from Western Greece with male voice, violin, laouto and
ntefi (tambourine) in an historic venue.
Katerina Papadopoulou
fronted a chorus of melismatic women with Balkan overtones whom
Tangents/Kitka fans will appreciate. Also featured was some elegant
male dancing learned in Hungary.
The Stassinopoulou/Kalyviotis Duo was unlike any others. Kristi is a rocker, actress,
writer, rebete, ethnopunk, electronica Greekadelic. Her husband Stathis is an e-Magus
dub/loop/beat monster. Recovering from a debilitating illness, she jump-started, he
plugged her in, and we, the audience, were electrified.
And now for something completely different: Banda Jovanica. A tiny
dinner concert with accordion, violin, guitar and cimbalom (hammered
dulcimer) and 4 voices singing Balkan songs and dances. And some of us
did.
_____________________________________________________________________
Hilary Winslow, Bolinas "I can hardly believe what you put together."
Hilary with Kristi Stassinopoulou during the 2017 Tangents Greece Music Tour
This
trip is so great I’ve done it twice. I can hardly believe what you put together. It’s astonishing what not only musically but also in terms of guided tours and
fabulous food. We see amazing places all over Greece and the concerts
are hosted in unique and wonderful venues. And the musicians are always
happy to talk with us—that is a very intimate special treat. Imagine
yourself hearing antique Lyra played by a master as the sun sets
over the Aegean, on the slopes of Mt. Olympus. You’ll go back in
time while being very present.
This is a trip I cannot recommend more highly. Maximum stars!
David Anderson, Santa Rosa "Great musicians transcend genres and tastes was proven true."
David in lovely Pelion (photo by Maureen Patton)
I
have known Dore for almost forty years as a Tangents listener. I know
his tastes and his politics. I don’t know Greek music. Nonetheless, I
put my faith in Dore and joined the 2024 Greece Music Tour. I expected
a great experience and got better than that! The adage that great music
and great musicians transcend genres and tastes was proven true. I have
to also say that my expectation to meet kindred spirits was met as
well. I highly recommend future tours to all lovers of eclectic music -
you can’t go wrong with Dore!
Jan Hetherington, Oakland "I am
not typically a ‘tour’ person, but I cannot recommend these tours enough. Do it!!"
Jan and Joe with Greek felinity
I am
not typically a ‘tour’ person, but the idea of a tour to Greece, to
explore the music, food & culture seemed rather compelling. I have
loved Greece ever since reading Gerald Durrell’s books about his
family’s life in Corfu, when I was a child, and then watching a BBC spy
drama serial, in the early ’70’s, called ’The Lotus Eaters’ which was
set in Crete. With a couple of trips already to Greece, a half Greek
husband, & a love of Mediterranean food, music & dancing, going
on this tour seemed almost a ‘given’.
From our very first group
meal which lasted probably the typical 2-3 hours, I could tell we were
in for a good time. In 17 days we packed in 11 concerts, 6 different
locations (with Athens at the beginning & end), with terrain
varying from the ‘Big City’ to the coast of Crete, to the northern city
of Thessaloniki, to the mountain villages of Panteleimonas &
Portaria, & the ancient city of Ioannina. We had walking
tours, beach days, winding mountain roads, the freshest & tastiest
meals & genre-bending, transporting music that was played in
museums, cafes, community arts centers & theatres. We got to meet
& talk to the musicians, to learn so much about the instruments,
and also the ancient & modern history of Greece. I look forward to
playing all my new CDs & reading the books!
Dore describes
his groups as ‘self-selecting’. I can agree that with the common
interests, it made for spirited times & conversations. The trip was
finely tuned & Dore was like a ‘Mother hen’, in the best way. We
all took care of each other, and considering the number of moving
parts, it all went beautifully. Like Snow White - not too much &
not too little!
I cannot recommend these tours enough. Do it!!
Lourdes Vargas-Bogardus, Novato "Each note resonated with the beauty of the surroundings, making every concert a memorable event."
Lourdes at Mylopotamos Beach
I
had the pleasure of embarking on the Tangents 2024 music tour of
Greece, (11 concerts in 17 days) I cannot recommend this trip highly
enough!
From start to finish, the experience was superb. The
musicians were exceptionally talented, bringing the rich cultural
heritage of Greece to life through their performances. Each note
resonated with the beauty of the surroundings, making every concert a
memorable event.
The food throughout the trip was a highlight in
itself. I savored delicious local dishes that perfectly complemented
the musical journey. Each meal was an opportunity to indulge in the
flavors of Greece and share great conversations with fellow travelers.
Speaking
of companions, I was fortunate to meet like-minded individuals who
shared my passion for music. The camaraderie we built during the tour
added an extra layer of enjoyment to the experience, making it feel
even more special.
Dore’s organization of the tour was
impeccable. Every detail was taken care of, allowing me to fully
immerse myself in the experience without any worries. I loved the
various tours we had in Athens which opened my eyes to appreciate the
rich history of the city. I genuinely enjoyed every minute of this trip
and came away with great memories that I will cherish forever.
If
you have the chance to join Dore and other fellow travelers in the
Tangents music tour in Greece, don’t hesitate! The combination of
exceptional music, wonderful food, and fantastic company makes for an
unforgettable adventure.
Liz Hartka, Oakland "The concerts exceeded all expectations."
Liz Hartka front and center and Ala Rum violinist Sotiros Katsouras 4th from left in back.
Photo by David Anderson
I
joined this Greece tour mainly for the music and the concerts exceeded
all expectations. I was delighted by the eclectic venues (a mosque, an
outdoor deck in the mountains at sunset, an archeological museum
overlooking the twinkling lights of Chania), the friendly locals, and
the opportunity to meet the musicians and talk with them after the
shows. We even had dinner with one of the groups (Iliodromio) in
Panteleimonas!
Dore is a super-competent and preternaturally
patient guide. In my book, he achieved sainthood. An added bonus -
which Dore thoughtfully requested and arranged for us - was the
availability of CDs after several of the concerts. It was wonderful to
be able to bring some of this music home and not only relive the
experience, but also appreciate new dimensions of it. I’ve thoroughly
enjoyed every minute of those CDs. And just to echo what others have
written, the lodgings, walking tours, restaurants, and the company of
like-minded travelers were all icing on the cake!
Jim Michaels, San Francisco "This was my 13th time in Greece since my family is from here and was my most favorite visit."
Jim talking to a member of Ala Rum post concert that took place in "Fetihe Cami" mosque
at the center of the Ioannina castle.
The
Greek Tangents Music Tour surpassed my expectations more than I could
have imagined. Every concert was unique musically with wonderful
venues, historical/artistic tours with excellent tour guides, plus
great accommodations, two wonderful beach days, and excellent group
meals. In addition, the camaraderie with all of us on the tour was
memorable.
The following was one of my most memorable concert
experiences: Our second concert in Crete in the village of Vamos
(45 minutes from our Hania base) with the Stelios Petrakis Trio.
It was an outdoors packed show at a Community Center. During
several songs, most of the crowd would sing the lyrics with the band.
Later on, several times, 70 plus attendees were dancing traditional
Cretan steps on the small stage and the extension. Post-concert, I
asked concert-goers sitting behind us: “What is the origin of these
historic anthems.” Response—"These are songs written by Stelios.”
My jaw dropped, assuming these were from many years ago vs recent.” I
bought three of Stelios’ CD's and one of them has the lyrics translated
in English.
This was my 13th time in Greece since my family is
from here and was my most favorite visit. Reflecting upon return,
I highly recommend the future Greece Music Tangents tour to anyone
considering it. I hope that I built some ongoing friendships with
members of "The Tour", and most importantly with Dore.
Kent Buzine, El Cerrito "The magic I experienced was so unexpected, so special,
that it seemed to be a gift from some unseen hand."
Marilyn and Kent in Ioannina. (Photo by Jan Hetherington)
There
is much to praise and celebrate about the Tangents tour of Greece, led
by Dore Stein. Greece is a beautiful country, and the tour took us to
many unforgettable places, among mountains and seashores, small
villages and sections of major cities (e.g., we saw some amazingly
touching graffiti in Athens). Every place we stayed seemed to have its
own magic. Yet the magic I experienced was so unexpected, so special,
that it seemed to be a gift from some unseen hand, something that's
very difficult to understand through conventional logic. One magic
moment was near a small village on a mountain top, looking down on the
countryside and the Aegean sea, and across to Mount Olympus. The hotel
was built by hand, of stone and wood, by the owner. A concert held
there, on a large deck, was wonderful, of a quality befitting the
setting.
Music is, of course, a big part of the Tangents tour,
and every concert had its own form of beauty and energy. Often I was
transported to a place of joy and gratefulness as the music flowed
through me. We were able to speak with the musicians (and composers)
after a number of the concerts, and this was really a special treat,
making our experience all the more special and rewarding.
I want
to emphasize how much my experience of the tour was enhanced by our
fellow travelers. It seems that people who are drawn to the Tangents
Music Tour are especially kind, wise, accomplished, engaging and
fascinating. Finally, I have to say how great the food was on the
tour. Thank you, Dore, for the many, many ways you put together an
unforgettably wonderful experience.
Marilyn Jensen, El Cerrito "The 2025 Tangents tour is not to be missed! Don't wait well over four years, as I did. Reserve a spot soon!!"
Marilyn and Kent poring over a dinner menu during the 2024 Tangents Greece Music Tour.
If
you love authentic music, fabulous travel companions, and wonderful
food, arranged by a well-organized, skilled, and highly
knowledgeable leader, then the Tangents Greece music tour is for you!
As
I reflect on my experience of the tour this past October, the intimate
concerts, gorgeous mountains, beaches, friendly people, and charmingly
beautiful villages are an additional treasure.
Among many, one
of my favorite experiences, organized by Dore, was sitting across from
a musician and composer at dinner. I could speak only three words of
Greek; he spoke limited English. Wondering how we might be able
to have a conversation, I somewhat mischievously asked, "What is
music?" We proceeded from there -aided by his friend - to have a lively
discussion about music, John Cage, and the nature of sound itself.
As
if any more loveliness were needed, both Greece and Dore love
cats! My preference is for dogs and horses, but Greece has more
beautiful, well cared for cats than any other place I've seen.
The 2025 Tangents tour is not to be missed! Don't wait well over four years, as I did. Reserve a spot soon!!
Sallie Shawl, Lakebay, Washington "I have to say that the tour guides who Dore knows and hired were an amazing 'added attraction.'"
Sallie scoring some raki.
Traveling
on the Tangents Greece Music Tour was like going to a party or festival
that lasted 17 days. It was clear at the first concert -- and this
lasted throughout the tour -- that all the musicians were at the top of
their craft. Some of the music was meditative and/or hypnotic, while
others were toe-tapping or called for deeply focused attention. Some
was cutting-edge, and some was out-right joyful – perhaps most
especially when a group was joined by a sizeable number of some of the
musicians’ highly-accomplished students, and then again at an outdoor
venue when the audience got up and danced and then began singing along
with the musicians. Although
music was the focus, I have to say that the tour guides who Dore knows
and hired were an amazing "added attraction." One focused on graffiti
and, by virtue of context, much about the graffiti-art scene in Athens,
along with the social issues and ills that it draws upon. Another tour
was framed around the history of rebetiko as we wandered in an old
castle turned fortress turned prison (and now museum), hearing stories
about people in the prison and the music they created.Thanks to my sister who gave this trip to me!
Joe Davis, Oakland "Being cat lovers,
every day seemed to have friendly kitties as part of our experience."
Jan and Joe with Lappy Blackie
My wife, Jan, got wind of the Tangents
tour from her chorus friends and signed us up for it. I didn't know what
to expect but it certainly turned out to be a lot of fun. It had a fairly full
schedule with a wide variety of activities that were all very interesting, and
some involved expert guides who knew so much and answered lots of different
questions. The musicians, their instruments and performances were all
unique and entertaining events, and in varying venues. And the others on
the tour were all good people enjoying the good times together. Dinner
was the most engaging as we all got familiar with the foods and each other.
Jan and I enjoy moving to music, and we
were able do a syrtos at one of the music performances. And, being cat lovers,
every day seemed to have friendly kitties as part of our experience.