Liz Gjelten, SF "The Tangents Greece Music Tour blew away my anti-tour bias."
From left to right: Heidi, thie fun owner of a restaurant in Metsovo
with Liz in the middle and Eula.
In
the past, I've always said, "I don't do group tours." My travel
philosophy has been to go where I have contacts with people who live
where I'm traveling and can introduce me to the local culture,
especially to artists. Well, guess what? The Tangents Greece Muisc Tour
blew away my anti-tour bias, for a lot of reasons.
First, Dore
has more contacts than I ever could. He has ongoing relationships with
the best musicians in the country. We heard the most amazing music, in
a range of settings from a private concert in our hotel to a hip
bar/club in a cobblestone alley in Chania (Crete), from a gorgeous
outdoor amphitheater with views of Mount Olympos and the Aegean to a
tiny taverna in Athens where the musicians were literally three feet
from my chair.
When possible, Dore also sometimes arranged to
have the musicians eat dinner with us, so we could bend their ears
about everything from their instruments to Greek politics. What an
opportunity!
Though walking tours aren't the focus of the tour,
here again Dore has contacts with super-smart, interesting and
entertaining guides who brought alive everything from street art in
Athens to the history of the Jewish community in Thessaloniki.
And
the food! It just kept getting better and better and better, with the
highlight at a lovely farm-to-table restaurant in a mountain village in
the Pindos Mountains. Absolutely gorgeous, absolutely delicious.
As
I'm sure others have said, this is the tour for people who don't do
tours but want authentic cultural experiences. The group is
self-selecting: that is, other people who want the same and love the
kind of music they hear on Tangents Radio. An interesting, engaged
bunch of people. (We liked each other so much that messages on the
WhatsApp group just keep coming, days after our return.)
Ewald and Stasha Detjens, Berkeley "Dore is a force of nature, a modern Apollo
of music."
Stasha and Ewald Detjens
Dore
is a force of nature, a modern Apollo of music. He seems to get
more energy every year (we’ve done a tour years ago.) One of the
musicians on the tour said Dore seems to get younger.
The
musical experience was better than I could have imagined. And all
of Greece is a wonder. But you get to go to places where tourists
don’t go. I fell in love with Thessaloniki, where I wouldn’t have
thought to go on my own. Partly it is the places, but largely it is all
the people/guides/musicians you meet.Go to Greece early and get over your jet lag, because you will be in for a whirlwind tour.
Virginia
Browning, Berkeley "The music was ALL just gorgeous to me
–
healing, nurturing, exciting, beyond words."
Virginiaa Browning during the alternative urban art walking tour in Athens.
(photo by Chris Northcutt)
I'd
been thinking of this since before the Covid era. Put my money down,
made the commitment, then it was all off. Back and forth – could I
really afford it? What if I didn't like most of the music? Would Athens
be too much “city” for me as I had heard from a Greek-American friend...
To
not have to do all the trip-planning myself, but gently waft perhaps
zombie-like from music to beautiful music – all preparation done
ahead... Would Dore's idea of great be mine? I joke I'm like the
princess on the pea – a life-long leg ailment and simply aging making
comfort sometimes difficult. Could I afford this expense?
How long will he keep doing these trips? Can I afford not to?
Dore
encouraged and participated in communication of all misgivings. Maybe I
couldn't quite do it...we talked and wrote. It was a yes! Wait – it had
to sadly be a no – I couldn't really afford it...Friends said come on
you've been wanting this so long and helped... OK! It was on!
A
challenge with my legs that swell, but I carted around an inflatable
foot-stool (already planning improvements for “next” time), which kind
of worked mostly – even in the front row of an amazing concert where I
noticed the pianist, weaving magic alongside a traditional lyra –
played with a couple of keys depressed. A whole conversation afterwards
on that. A musician on the tour couldn't believe that until I showed
him the keys. The concert (like most if not all) seemed too beyond
great to believe that...But it was true (old piano, though
carefully-tuned, had a bit of a glitch despite). I bought their CD and
have been listening today – it's as magical as I remembered.
If
even half the music had been as wonderful as I'd hoped, I'd have been
happy. It was ALL simply incredibly wonderful to me. Tears in my eyes
in thanks to myself and all help that I did it. The music was ALL just
gorgeous to me – healing, nurturing, exciting, beyond words.
Many
on the tour were spunky seniors like me. I wasn't alone in dealing with
the natural trajectory of aging. But we did attend most concerts, most
of us (I, exhausted at one point, missed part of one – was easily able
to walk back to that once-in-a-lifetime hotel with lovingly carved wood
trim everywhere on the side of Mount Olympus). I could still hear the
beautiful music walking back.
I've read some other testimonials.
Liz says it well as does Chris and some others: If you can do this, I
would do it! I'd sign right back up for the next one if I could.
I
still feel the reverberations of the suffusing lovely music – memories
of the healing, humanizing settings and dear music-loving companions,
some quite witty, all kind, working together to make it the best it
could be.
It was my first trip to Europe (at my age!). I'll never
forget (I hope!) the feeling, within me for now at least, of wise
ancient building walls, nudgingly sweet often-narrow lanes lined with
friendly commerce, balconies, lovingly-placed greenery and flowers,
kids with somewhere to go (in stark contrast to the sad draining out of
life in my own town back home.) Model building components now within me
somehow – something real to carry in my own body to crazy “planning”
felonious commissions back home...
Jeanie Daskais, Forestville "This
is a unique and unparalleled opportunity to hear the finest music,
performed by the most accomplished musicians, in intimate settings with
local audiences."
Jeanie and a new friend walking touring a walking tour in Thessaloniki.
What
better way to appreciate the soul of a culture than through its music?
In the Tangents Greece Music Tour, we pursued that idea; we enjoyed 11
concerts, mostly produced by Dore Stein, the tour founder and director.
The music varied from traditional Ottoman era music to jazz and modern
interpretations of classic music forms and sources using traditional
Greek instruments. I got to meet the musicians and hear about their
aspirations and challenges. One fraught challenge, I learned, was
honoring the Turkish contribution to the Greek tradition. The musicians
were all nothing less than magnificent, and we had front row seats to
it all. Magic happened in those concert venues, my soul was enriched,
my heart stirred.
That
happened at night. The daytimes were filled with the best of tourism.
The many tours, led by charismatic guides with deep expertise in
history, enraptured me with the rich, tumultuous history of the Greek
people, from ancient times to the current century. Every day we dined
in authentic tavernas, far from the madding crowds, some simple, some
the highest of gourmet presentation, all delicious and a wonderful
setting to enjoy the camaraderie of my fellow travellers. Now may I
say, my beloved fellow travellers!
We
got to travel all over Greece, a tour de force of logistics, from
dizzying high mountain monasteries and remote lodges with majestic
ancient plane trees to olive tree festooned beaches with turquoise
seas, perfect for swimming. Everywhere we went, Dore was greeted like
the celebrated return of the Prodigal Son by musicians, restauranteurs,
hoteliers, which meant every experience was graced by a "personal"
touch. This lent to opportunities to hear people's life stories, see
their humanity.
I
beheld a tour planned and realized by Dore, with passion for a singular
excellence in the music, in the lodging and dining, in the cultural
enlightenments, in the total. The Tangents Greece Music Tour chiseled
an indelible inscription on my psyche (from the Greek, ψυχή). One that
I will ponder and marvel at, and find new realizations, for the rest of
my life.
Chris Northcutt, SF "Do
whatever it takes to make this experience happen for
you!."
Chris videotaping Daulute Trio from an arms length away in a cozy bar/cafe in ChaniaThis was my second Tangents Greece Music Tour. I can assure you will get to::
Attend lots of great concerts!!!
Enjoy the company of engaging and intelligent co-travelers
Stay in quaint and very comfy boutique hotels
Eat wonderful local greek food
Visit scenic and historic cities, towns and villages (Athens, Chania, Thessaloniki,
Ioannina, others)
Visit UN World Heritage sites (Acropolis and Meteora)
Learn from informative walking tours (Athens and Thessaloniki)
Hang out on the beach
See the countryside
Explore and shop on your own
For Greek immersion focused on music, there is no other tour that comes anywhere close.
If
you're reading this, you’re privileged to have this opportunity. It’s
only promoted within the Tangents community, and word of mouth by past
attendees.
My advice after my second tour remains the
same as after my first: Do whatever it takes to make this
experience happen for you!.
Karen Felker, Sebastopol "It
was an extraordinary experience beyond anything I
could have imagined.."
Karen and Jeanie talking post concert with Sokratis Sinopoulos.
I
just got back from spending 17 days with 15 other Tangents Tour
members on an incredible, memorable tour organized and directed by Dore
Stein. Dore has been leading music tours for more than twenty years, so
he has this type of operation down.
Unforeseen snags are bound
to come up when trying to arrange not just eleven concerts,
but also multiple hotel rooms, meals, transportation, and guided
tours spread out over a 17-day period. But Dore stayed on top of it
all—at times it seemed he barely had time to sleep, making phone calls,
text messages, and sending emails while the rest of us relaxed and
enjoyed the fruits of his labors.
And what were the sweet
rewards of the tour? It was an extraordinary experience beyond anything
I could have imagined. On the first full day of the tour, a
knowledgeable young woman walked us around Athens as she told us about
the history of the lauto, the Cretan, Constantinople, and Pontic types
of lyras, and even how musicians push the strings instead of pressing
them. She then briefly showed us into the Museum of Greek Folk
Instruments. This guided tour laid the foundation for a deeper
appreciation of most of the concerts that followed, where a lyra or
lauto were often featured instruments.
With the aid of the money
we paid him for the tour, Dore produced ten concerts where he
introduced us to the best available musicians playing authentic Greek
instruments. Ross Daly, a master of the Cretan lyra, played for us,
along with his equally talented wife, Kelly Thoma. After the private
concert, Ross expounded on the modal school of music that he teaches
and thoughtfully answered our questions. Throughout the tour, my ears
and spirit were delighted by the exotic music we got to hear, played
not just on the lyra, but also the lauto, the oud, the qanun, the
Kamengeh Roumy, flute, hand drum, and even inflated goat-skin.
We
always stayed at comfortable hotels, centrally located, that offered
bountiful breakfast buffets. Most evenings we shared delicious
authentic Greek dishes—fresh salads, often fish, cheeses—finished off
with a wee glass of ouzo and dessert. Two unforgettable meals featured
organic, farm-fresh vegetables, home-made pastries, and even
fresh-caught trout.
In addition to the guided tour of Athens on
the first day, Dore scheduled three more guided tours. Each tour opened
my eyes, to the street art of Athens, the development of rembetika, and
the glorious civilization of pre-Roman Greece. I also learned more of
the history and struggles of the Greek people— the Ottoman occupancy,
the terror of the Nazi occupation— the emigrants from many neighboring
countries that make up their ancestry, and their ongoing economic
hardships.
My only regret is that the tour ended after sixteen days. Long enough, for sure, and we were pampered the entire time.
Virginia Leskowski, Oakland "This tour produced delightful surprises everyday."Virginia and Steve
This
tour produced delightful surprises everyday, musically, geographically
and in our accommodations. One of our most memorable stays was in a
mountaintop art gallery/lodge, with breathtaking views. A few of us
tour-goers commented as we sauntered back from the evening's concert,
"We can't believe we are staying here. It is like a fairytale."
Unforgettable experience, joyful and we now have 16 new friends. Added
bonus!
Marlene Rice, Salt Spring island, British Columbia "Dore made sure we immersed ourselves as much as possible to be with the Greek people.."
Jill and Marlene
(photo by Chris Northcutt)
Being
on Dore’s Tour was extremely satisfying. It was more than a tour it was
a fabulous experience. Every step of the way, included top notch tour
guides, varied music venues and astonishing array of delicious
Mediterranean cuisine as well as stylish quaint hotels.
Instead of
feeling you were floating above the Greek experience Dore made sure we
immersed ourselves as much as possible to be with the Greek people.
That
happened most noticeably in our involvement with the musicians, whether
asking questions after the concerts or best of all sitting together
sharing a feast with them, after their performances.
Dore was very generous in all aspects of being with us, so that it felt like we were touring as a family.
Mo Shooer, SF "What
made it all come together was Dore’s connections and
affection for the
musicians..."
Liz and Mo stretchngn prior to bus trip to Falassarna Beach and stone village Milia..
This is the first time I’ve traveled with a tour. I highly recommend the Tangents Greece Music Tour.
What
I found unique about it was the intimate contact with Greek culture
through our senses. We encountered its music, food, history,
topography, street art, exploring the cross section of neighborhoods in
the cities of Athens, Thessaloniki and Ioannina as well as life and
spectacular scenery in the mountain villages of Palaios Panteleimonas,
Milia, Metsovo and Papigo, in the Pindos Mountains, all off the beaten
track.
What made it all come together was Dore’s connections
and affection for the musicians, guides, shopkeepers, transportation
companies and hotel owners. But the essence for me was that part of the
fee for the tour is recycled to the musicians which allowed about half
of the concerts to be free to the community. It’s an experience I won’t
soon forget.
Jill Halloran, Cupertino "
Transcended my expectations"
Jill color coordinated among a graffiti wall in Athens.
(photo by Marlene Rice)
The
2023 Tangents Greek Music tour transcended my expectations. I was
delighted, but not surprised, at the quality, variety, and vibrancy of
the concerts Dore arranged. Many Dore-produced concerts were open to
the public, and the venues were packed.
The Greek people we met,
including terrific tour guides as well as musicians and others, were
proud of their heritage (rightly so). I learned a lot about recent
(along with ancient) history. For example, I didn't know about the
rebetiko tradition, which involves anti-establishment political protest
woven into music. I came back from the tour with a very high regard for
the Greek people.
Of course, there were the beautiful mountain villages, delicious food... and camaraderie of like-minded tour members.
Thanks for orchestrating the experience, Dore
Steve Loukas, Oakland "Dore’s
anthro dive into the arcane but worth
Greek/Balkan
music delights us!"
Steve chatting with pianist Yann Keerim post concert in Athens.
Dore’s
anthro dive into the arcane but worthy Greek/Balkan music delights us!
Great groups of musicians are commissioned for creative tours around
Greece at the perfect time of year,
not too hot October. Food is
also tuned for our +60 years of age group of 16 in the key of really
good! Get over and do it to fulfill the bucket list trip in
non-sedentary semi-luxurious style.
Vicky
Julian, SF "My mind is still
reeling with the wonderfulness of the
whole thing."
Vicky
with a new found friend.sitting by a giant tree in the backyard of our
hotel in the mountain village Palaios Panteleimona.s (photo by Jill Halloran)
I’ve
been home from the Greek Tangents Music Tour for over two weeks now,
and my mind is still reeling with the wonderfulness of the whole
thing. What a great experience…I am so glad I spent the money and
took the time to do this.
I loved the sweet boutique hotels (a
few of which seemed really intimate) with their incredible breakfast
spreads. The walking tours with knowledgeable locals who spoke
excellent English were super interesting, and piqued my interest in
learning a lot more about Greek history and culture. The many
concerts in a variety of small venues were first rate, and we often got
a chance to talk in depth with the musicians afterwards. Each day
we had a very convivial group lunch or dinner, usually outside, at a
wonderful Greek restaurant. The Greek food is to die for — very
fresh and well prepared — with lots of salads and many vegetarian
appetizers. This worked great for me and the other vegetarians in
the group…and it worked well for the meat eaters too. Also, the
custom in traditional Greek restaurants is for dessert to be brought
after the meal, on the house! All the travel within Greece,
including taxi, metro and bus rides, as well as two round trip
in-country flights, was very well organized by Dore. Dore put his
whole heart and soul into making this trip as great as possible, for
each one of us. During the trip he was working night and day and
was readily available to all of us.
I think my favorite hotel
was the one in Chania, Crete. It overlooked the beautiful
old Venetian harbor, and had the best breakfast spread of all our
hotels. Our delightful room had a comfortable balcony which
looked out onto the harbor — I remember sitting there thinking,
wow! I can’t believe I am experiencing this beauty. Later
the same night, after the group had a delicious dinner outside near our
hotel, we walked to the really hip club where the Duluth Trio was
playing. The place was full, mostly with Greeks, who were singing
in a very excited and lively way toward the end of the show. All
the concerts were really good, but I think this trio was the most
incredibly dynamic of all. I just couldn’t believe how good these
three guys were, and what amazing magic they conjured together. After
the show I walked back to the hotel, mostly by myself, along the
happening waterfront (lots of people dining outside at 11:00
p.m). I looked over the harbor and at the lights of the town and
thought again that I couldn’t believe I was having this incredible
experience.
Another mind-blowing experience for me was sitting
in the very small outdoor amphitheater in the small mountain town of
Palaios Panteleimon, waiting for the first of the two concerts we saw
there. I just couldn’t stop thinking of how unique and special
this experience was. After the first concert (Iliodromio, which
was one of my favorite bands), we walked back to our hotel, up some
stairs, and there we were in a fairytale setting! The restaurant
in this hotel had a gorgeous view and was full of beautiful wood
carvings everywhere (done by the now retired original proprietor of the
hotel). The hotel was stone and full of all these wood carvings,
stained glass, and interesting old family pictures. What a
place! It was rustic beauty, and I think our group filled all the
rooms. Our neighbors from the tour had incredible balconies
overlooking the lights of the town. We convened the next day at a
jewelry shop in town…the couple who owned it are artists and the shop
was like a little museum. They were so friendly and waved
us goodbye from the steps of the shop when we were walking to our bus
on our last morning there.
The courtyard of our intimate hotel
in Ioannina was definitely a small slice of heaven, and the front desk
man there, Kristos, did a heroic service for our tour group!
The
last night of our tour, we enjoyed the fun and lively music of Banda
Jovanica in a very small cafe in an Athens neighborhood that we hadn’t
visited before. It was really a terrific and festive ending to
our tour!
It was a wonderful group, and I am so glad to have
made many new friends. Dore was definitely the host with the
most. I surpassed all my goals — to have a great time, to engage
with Greek culture and history, to become more entwined with the
Tangents community, to expand my enjoyment and appreciation of the kind
of music Dore plays on Tangents, and to experience the Mediterranean
diet in its full and scrumptious glory!
This is a unique travel
experience, hand-curated by a master (Dore). Now I really really
want to go on Dore’s Tangents Tour of Turkey, but unfortunately that
has been indefinitely paused.
I loved the whole experience! Highly recommended!!