in a tiny mountain village near Mt. Olympus.
Athens airport arrival day. We had a group dinner at an exceptional fish restaurant. Afterwards a spacious music shop called Underflow opened for us to host our orientation
Oct 5:
Our first of five alternative walking tours was guided by Katerina who showed us the city of Athens through street art.
Liz Hartka:
Katerina’s “Exploring Street Art in Athens” tour was a highlight. Going forward, I will look at street art through a completely new lens. Katerina taught us how to experience the art and to probe the artist’s intent. I have a new appreciation for technique, messaging, color, purpose and style. What a terrific teacher and what a great introduction to both Athens and Greece.
Livas Trio (Vagelis Karipis - perc, Taxiarchis Georgoulis - oud and Tasos Poulios - qanun) kicked off the first of 11 concerts, all conceived and produced by Dore. A pleasant surprise was the addition of guest percussionist Alex Rizopoulos.
Maureen Parton:
Of the eleven nights of concerts, one that was particularly beguiling was hearing expert lyra musician, Socrates Sinopoulos gather 3 other master lyra players to present a rare, world-class and transformative concert.
Oct. 7:
We arrived by air to picturesque Chania on the island Crete. There was free time to explore this charming town by a Venetian harbor.
No clue who this person is but like how the photo is framed.
The evening concert was with Daulute Trio.
Liz Hartka:
Peak
musical experience: Daulute Trio, Chania. Talk about an emotional
response - I wept tears of joy at this concert. The trio’s performance
was mesmerizing and, at times, incredibly energetic. One of my favorite
moments was when the woodwind artist picked up the goat skin and
produced the sounds of a bagpipe. Another favorite memory was the
oudist wailing on his instrument as if it were a Fender Stratocaster.
The setting overlooking Chania with a crescent moon on the horizon was
enthralling.
Twila Earle:
The depth and power of the relationship among these the masterful
musicians created a fierce and passionate music that demanded nothing
less than full bodied response. Their unified sound seemed to be coming
from the tectonic plates beneath us, teaching and insisting on life and
love lived in every moment to the limit.
locally known as the askomandoura during their 2024 Tangents tour concert.
Lourdes Vargas-Bogardus:
Daulute is an extraordinary trio that weaves a sonic tapestry of world music, each individual musician a master in their own right, yet together they create pure magic that demands movement and surrender. The trio's unique blend of world music is infectious, drawing the audience in and refusing to let go. Their energetic performance had my body wanting to move, especially during the flute player’s rendition of 'The Goat,' which brought down the house. This was an unforgettable night of great music!
Oct. 8:
Today we traveled to Falasarna beach where we swam in the crystal clear turquoise sea. The sand at this beach is extra fine which is unusual for Greek beaches.
Overlooking Falasarna beach (photo by Carolyn Wrright)
Afterward we journeyed well off the beaten path to an eco-touristic
getaway called Milia.There is one restaurant in this stone village
which prepares its food from what is grown in the nearby surroundings. Even
the raki is homemade.
The Stelios Petrakis Trio performed a free concert for locals at a community cooperative about 40 minutes outsde of Chania.
Jim Michaels:
One
of my most memorable concert experiences was in the village of
Vamos with the Stelios Petrakis Trio. It was an outdoors packed
show at a community center. During several songs, most of the crowd
would sing the lyrics with the band. Later on, several times, 70 plus
attendees were dancing traditional Cretan steps on the small stage and
the extension. Post-concert, I asked concert-goers sitting behind us:
“What is the origin of these historic anthems.” Response—"These are
songs written by Stelios.” My jaw dropped, assuming these were
from many years ago vs recent.” I bought three of Stelios’ CD's and one
of them has the lyrics translated in English..
Oct. 9:
The group enjoyed free time in Chania during the day and we flew to Thessaloniki in the evening.
Oct. 10:
Our guide Tassos took us on an tour of Thessaloniki which once belonged almost equally to Jews, Greeks, Ottomans and refugees from Minor Asia, just to name a few.
Liz Hartka:
During the afternoon we visited the Seikilo Museum of Ancient Music. We were guided by ancient lyre master Theodoros Koumartzis, whose family created this one of a kind museum. Theodoros performed a Tangents concert in SF at the Clarion Performing Arts Center earlier in the year and also performed a duo concert later in a mountain village on the 2024 tour.
Liz Hartka:
Another peak pedagogical experience was our visit to the Museum of Ancient Instruments in Thessaloniki. Theodoros was a charming and knowledgeable guide on this Tangential journey. I loved the demonstrations he did with the instruments - they added an entirely new dimension to my experience of the music.
In the evening we were treated to essentially a private concert by Elsa Mouratido's ilon & Theta Project in a painter's studio. The city of Thessaloniki suffers from a lack of decent music venues. What's worse, is when creative performing spaces emerge such as the painter's studio, the private venue faces stiff fines if they promote it. Hence, few locals learned about the concert.
Elsa Mouratido performing at the painter's studio.
Oct 11:
We started the day with a rebetiko walking tour with Tassos highlighted by a visit to the imposing Yedi Kule (prison) where rebetiko was a lifeline for prisoners.
Tangential Hall-of-Fame guide Tassos during the rebetiko tour
with my reflection screwing up his photo display.
After enjoying a lovely meal with Tassos, our Tangents bus took over for the next 7 days as we traveled across Greece.Our first stop was a mountain village in the shadow of Mount Olympus.
In an idyllic setting just before dusk, we were mesmerized by an outdoor concert with our ancient lyre friend Theodore Koumartzis and accordionist Stavros Stavridis.
Twila Earle:
I couldn’t imagine what the music of accordion and ancient lyra together might be like. I was so surprised. In the masterful hands of Theodoros Koumarttzis and Thanos Stavridis, this instrumental combination was subtle, delicate and ethereal. Exquisite. As we listened, the light of the sinking sun poured slowly down the mountainside and into the valley below, bathing us and all the world before us in gentle pink and then purple hues that whispered of the coming night. We were transformed.
Theodoros Koumarttzis and Thanos Stavridis
Oct 12:
We experienced an afternoon concert in an outdoor amphitheater with IIlodromio. It has 8 members and is an ensemble that sounds like no other. The band's leader Ilias Sarigiannidis is about half my age but is profoundly influenced by progressive/art rock from back in the day such as King Crimson He's also a master of Greek traditional music, among other things. Bulgarian kaval is a lead instrument in this group with a riveting string section. We were delighted to have opening children acts that Ilias teaches.
Children Opening Act
The sheer depth and beauty of it all had me in tears.
I told the bass player this afterwards. Looking into my eyes, he said, “Yes, me too.”
Several other people who had been in the audience told me later individually that they had been moved to tears.
As the evening came to a close, I overheard one of the violinists saying,
“This is the doctor: the music.”
What can I say, you had to be there.
Iliodromio at the bottom and an alluring branch in the foreground.
Oct. 13:
We traveled to Pelion which is a mountain region perched above Volos. It is my favorite destination in Greece because of its beauty and spiritual connection. I have wonderful memories of traveling here with my mother in the 1980's and 90's. My brother and I scattered my mom's ashes in Pelion among other sacred spots in Greece where my mom used to live .See Communion with My Mother for the story.
After an intense week of concerts Pelion was the perfect environment to relax and enjoy nature. I love the giant old tree just outside our hotel.
Oct. 14:
Some of the group stayed back in our village while others traveled to secluded Mylopotamos beach.
Mylopotamos beach with a small hole in the wall that separates the beach.
Below Joe navigates the crossing.
We traveled across Greece to the Ottoman influenced city Ioannina but stopped at one of the wonders of the world, Meteora along the way.
Meteora is a series of monasteries seemingly suspended from the heavens. After our guided Meteora tour, we traveled winding mountainous roads and through several long tunnels to the distinctive mountain village Metsovo for lunch.
Meteora
Oct 16:
Our boutique hotel was a minute from the Ottoman castle in the center of Ioannina.
Ala Rum performed the evening concert at "Fetihe Cami" (mosque) inside the castle. We had to receive permission from the Ministry of Culture because the mosque which is now a museum, is a historical place.
Group leader and violinist Sotiros Katsouras stopped by our hotel after the concert.
Photo by David Anderson.
Oct. 17:
We traveled to the rugged Pindus Mountains to a region called Zagorohoria - 46 villages clustered throughout the mountain range. About half were bombed by the Nazis and as far as I know never returned to its normal population. The Albanian border was about 12 miles from where we turned off to Zagorohoria.
We ascended to the picturesque village Megalo Papigo where I met a cat with Tangential eyes.
This day's alternative walking tour was guided by Anastasia who took us to various Athenian neighborhoods including the fascinating and often misunderstood Exarchia neighborhood where we had a group lunch.
Liz Hartka:
Katerina’s program was ambitious and a real crowd pleaser, meaning there was something for everyone - music, singing, and dance. Personally, I loved every piece. I thought the singing added a robust and emotional element to the performance - both Katerina’s and the chorus’ were moving. The dancer was a real surprise. I’d never seen dancing like his before and I was delighted and awed by his performance. I could have watched him for hours.
Liz Hartka:
Alex is a phenomenal tour guide. Not only did he teach us about the Parthenon and the Acropolis, he taught us Greek. He is also a great storyteller, and packaged a lot of information into a digestible form. I really enjoyed meeting him.
My two best Greek friends, Kristi Stassinopoulou and Stahis Kalyviotis, performed their first Athens concert in four years. The concert sold out quickly.
All of the concerts were remarkable. But, one, in particular, stood out. Dore had arranged a concert in a warehouse in the far reaches of Athens. We were there to hear Kristi Stassinopoulu and Stahis Kalyviotis, a married couple, in concert and their musical performance danced energetically and with spellbinding drama from indigenous Greek folk to rock to electronica. I was filled with a knowing sense that Jim (Maureen's late husband) was present, there with me, enjoying what might best be described as a Greek "Patti Smith" and "Lou Reed." But, they were more than that. They were the sound that I had been longing to hear. It was as if I had a divine download from the great beyond. It was the essence of Jim's presence and spirit right there rocking along with me.
After the show, I walked up to Kristi and introduced myself. I tried to describe what her performance meant to me, that I felt healed in some wordless way. At a loss for words, I asked if I could hug her. She smiled and opened her arms and we embraced for a long time. Somehow, someway, sisters in grief and sisters in healing.
Maureen and Kristi Stassinopoulou
On the final day of the Tangents Greece Music Tour our group enjoyed a full day of free time.
Our eleventh and final concert was at my favorite tiny taverna in Athens. Banda Jovanica settled into a corner and played their hearts out. It may be the only Greek band led by a cimbalom, common in Hungarian and Romanian folk music.
Oct. 21: Back to Reality
I'm proud to create a music and cultural experience that no only enrich the lives of Tangents travelers, but profoundly impact artists, locals and venues in Greece.
I marvel at how Tangents tour groups become family which enhances the overall experience for all.
Kent Buzine:
I want to emphasize how much my experience of the tour was enhanced by our fellow travelers. It seems that people who are drawn to the Tangents Music Tour are especially kind, wise, accomplished, engaging and fascinating.
Transforming lives through music and travel,
Tangents Greece Music Tours
Next One: Oct. 3-20, 2025
Email tangentsgreecetour@gmail.com
copyright: Tangents 2024
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