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Walking in the Sahara Desert, the tall, golden dunes against a brilliant blue sky, my companions swaying on camels, faces swathed in scarves, perfect stillness. We arrive at our resting spot. Our team of guides, working in silence, miraculously presents us with a feast of a Moroccan omelet, chicken brochette, tangine, and a colorful salad of tomatoes, onions, cucumbers, and plumb sardines. Dessert, a platter of oranges, one stolen by a camel standing nearby and swallowed in one big gulp.
A Gnawa concert, arranged especially for us in a cozy, vegan restaurant in Essaouira. Three young musicians, playing large castanets and a string instrument, the gimbri, singing for hours, hypnotize us with their plaintive voices.
The
kasbah in Amerzou, outside of Zagora, a guide leads us through a maze
of cracked walkways to the remains of a synagogue. A herd of aggressive
boys follows us shouting, "Stilos, stilos" (pens, pens). A young girl,
headscarf tied around her hair, stands against a wall, watching. I
surreptitiously slip the prized stilo and mini-notebook inside the
sleeve of her sweater. She says nothing, but follows us outside the
kasbah. She asks my name and where Iā€™m from. I ask hersā€”Fatima--and
permission to take her picture, her lovely face a reminder of our sweet
deception. Back in the Bay Area, an added bonus: our group, the M-10,
continues to meet, tied together by memories of Morocco.
Linda Nansen, La Honda
This is a tour for those who don't 'do' tours, but one for those who do as well. 5-star it isn't, by normal definition. Which to me means western-style hotels, being herded from one landmark to another, etc. etc. Our tour was 5-star in other, more soulful ways: Dore was always very grounded & really had it together if problems arose (hey, this is Morocco after all). Cool, calm, collected & a great friend as well. The other travelers were the best. Kindred spirits. An interest in music is an amazing connection, & what fun we had. We saw & did so much yet never felt rushed. Our guides & drivers, chosen by Dore, couldn't have been better. Experiences like singing oldies driving across the Sahara with the driver beating out the rhythms - Arabic style - on the dashboard & laughing & laughing.. Our desert accomodations at the nomad encampment were beautiful & comfortable (yes - beds in the tents!); the cookout in the Sahara was our favorite meal. When we were there, the weather was perfect, like a beautiful Bay Area day of sun & blue skies.
We
had some musical experiences we'll never forget, particularly in
Essaouira, a beautiful old port town & spiritual home of the Gnawa
musicians. Moroccan music is amazing. Morocco is amazing, a beautiful
magical place which makes you wonder how & why the rest of us have
so complicated our lives. It is very foreign, though, & I'm glad on
my first trip here I was in such good hands, with riads, hotels &
transportation arranged, & restaurants already ferreted out. We
always had plenty of time to do our own thing if desired & break
away from the group if we wished. I loved my trip, my companions, &
the price was fair. Be sure & work on your bargaining skills for
souvenirs though, & remember it's all a game, & fun is the
optimal word (this from a pretty bad bargainer...)
Ewald Detjens, San Francisco
A
tour with Dore Stein is a most amazing voyage. Dore brings love and
knowledge of diverse musical sources to his tour. He loves to dive into
the local scene and creates opportunities to hear music you would not
otherwise experience. I have haunting memories of Gnawa musicians
performing in a restaurant in Essaouira that was closed for the
evening, and surreal memories of Berber musicians performing at a
desert camp in the Sahara for New Year's Eve. Bon Voyage!
Stasha Vlasuk, Berkeley
Go
to Morocco with Dore! You'll experience the wide range of this
beautiful country: from bustling souks to spacious desert, with
delicious and traditional food throughout. Dore has thoughtfully
provided a local person in each of the many regions he packs into this
delightful tour as a liaison and expert in the ancient history and
modern culture of this friendly and fascinating country. Go! It's more
than a vacation, it's an unforgettable adventure.
Bonita Cohn, San Francisco
Dore's tour was an incredible adventure. i am forever hungry for tajine and longing for fabrics, smelling the spices and hearing music that resonates for me in the soul-places of my nature. Travelling with Dore was an adventure everyday, with the knowledge that someone looking out for you.